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Day in the Life | At the Roastery with Amaris
What's it like to oversee a busy coffee company's lifeblood—the roasting of the actual beans? Amaris Gutierrez-Ray is Joe Coffee's Roasting Operations Manager, a job that calls upon everything from paperwork to palate to, of course, heavy lifting. Here's what a typical roasting day looks like for Amaris.
8:00am
I start roasting coffee Mondays and Wednesdays beginning at 6:00am, but my Thursday shift is a small luxury in my week: it starts at 11am, so I can get in both a little extra sleep and also a morning yoga class before heading to our roasting space at the Pulley Collective in Red Hook. I have a beautifully easy downhill bike ride from where I live in Sunset Park to the yoga studio in South Slope, and after class I can coast down another hill straight to the Liberty Warehouse pier on the water in the sunshine. As I ride I think about the comment my yoga teacher made on how yoga, as a metaphor for life, involves directly engaging with facing or feeling discomfort, and that rings very true today as I take off my helmet and walk into the waterfront warehouse where we roast. On hot days, we maximize cooling by keeping our front doors and back bay open, and employ a strategic frenzy of fans to bring in breezes off the water. But that’s all we have in terms of climate control so summertime is one giant opportunity to learn from ourselves and engage with discomfort.
11:00am
On a normal Thursday I jump straight into setting up our production cupping, but today is Production Roaster Roberta Duarte’s birthday so I sneakily sidle up to Jake Kirkpatrick, Production Operations Manager, to confirm he’s ordered birthday pizza, which we present to her with a not-very-stable candle. We work in a somewhat isolated part of Brooklyn, with the nearest lunch option being the Fairway across the mini-peninsula, so the whole team is pumped to have pizza today.
Mid-day here is the beginning of our Thursday symphony: many moving parts weaving in and out, with Jake and Lee Harrison, our Director of Roasting, at hand in case tempo dies down and they can help step it up. The production closers haven’t started yet, but most of the team is here already and is packing retail on the two weigh-and-fill machines, and just getting started filling up 5lb bags with a massive automated bulk bagging machine. Greg, our Shipping and Receiving Lead, is knee-deep in packing the mail orders, and Roberta and Liam Berkowitz, our other production roaster, overlap for an hour during shift change on the Loring and start to fill 25lb bins of our Waverly espresso for stores and line them up so they’re ready to pack into vans later for tomorrow’s deliveries.
After pizza shenanigans, I check in with the roasters because the logistics company we use didn’t bring our full delivery of green coffee yesterday from Continental Terminals, a special climate-controlled coffee warehouse in NJ. We have a light day today, not quite 3,000lbs ordered, so after checking our inventory and comparing with what we need, I let Ed Kaufmann, our Director of Sourcing, know we have enough Nicaragua Placeres to fulfill today’s orders for The Daily house blend, but we’ll need that other pallet and a half tomorrow so we can get through Monday.
12:00pm
Production cupping is next, and with 23 samples on the table we have a lot to taste. We’re searching for ways to tweak the Daily's components to get more sweetness in the cup, so we have four samples each of experimental batches of the Guatemala El Morito and the Nicaragua Placeres. After lining up the table cheese-board style (least to most acidic), I weigh out 12.5 grams of each and set them aside, set two kettles to boil, and while the water starts to heat up I catch up with Lee to make sure we haven’t overlooked any daily to-do items. This past week we sampled a new coffee for cold brew kegs and bottles and we also need to make sure we all know the timeline of roasting and shipping samples to this year’s Good Food Awards.
When Andrew Oberholzer, our Head Roaster, has finished his opening shift roasting on the Probat, he helps me grind individual samples and hit them with boiling water. After doing a couple passes to taste, Liam takes a quick break from roasting to join us, and we analyze our roast data to find out where we attained the targets we were hoping for and identify where we can improve. We update a couple profiles after discussing the cup qualities in the Daily samples, I clear the table, and then the roasting half of my day begins.
2:00pm
Each roaster has a “home” machine, and mine is Pulley's vintage German Probat, although I can also operate the modern, energy-efficient Loring. I weigh out 40 green pounds of each coffee, pour into the well that vacuums the coffee up into the hopper above the roasting chamber, and then when the machine is at the right charging temperature, I pull the hatch and the coffee is released into the drum. This little ritual gets repeated many times over a few hours, and then finally once orders are fulfilled with some elbow room, I set the Probat to cool down.
6:00pm
While it’s cooling, I clear the chaff, sweep the area, scoot the last coffee bins down to the production area so the closing PAs can weigh the surplus, and then do a full count of every last bag of green we have (including empties) so I can send our order for next week’s green coffee delivery to Ed. If I have any time left over before the machine finishes cooling down -- and I nearly always do in summertime because of the heat -- I can look ahead to next week and catch up with email. I make sure the samples we need for our QC session at HQ next Tuesday have made their way to Chelsea, I start reviewing and organizing the data from our tasting sessions so I can write this week’s QC report, I chip away at reading some coffee-related articles, I plan out some topics to discuss for our Roaster Staff meeting in a week and a half, and make sure the dishwasher is started so the cupping bowls will be clean for whoever roasts at Pulley tomorrow. Meanwhile, production assistants are playing some wind-down music, loading the vans strategically based on tomorrow's projected delivery route, and sweeping up the production floor.
7:00pm
Before I know it the Probat is beeping at me to say it’s finally cooled down. Liam is wrapping up, too, we have a little end-of-day catch up, and then I spend a minute outside putting my helmet and biking gloves on, sharing a sunset moment with Lady Liberty out there in the fading light.
Rainforest Alliance: Why We Follow the Frog
As a neighborhood-based, family owned business founded in 2003, hospitality, quality, and responsibility have always defined Joe Coffee Company. But when we took the leap to roasting our own coffee in 2012, that idea of responsibility became a bigger question. We had to ask ourselves how to maintain a focus on coffee quality while behaving not only as a step in the coffee supply chain, but as responsible actors on a path of sustainability. It was through these questions and their answers that we got to know to the Rainforest Alliance.
An international nonprofit in operation for more than 30 years, the Rainforest Alliance works in nearly 80 countries worldwide to promote the development and promotion of sustainable standards in farming, forestry and tourism. These standards help protect the environment and promote the well-being of workers, their families, and their communities.
As buyers of green coffee from diverse countries around the world, we at Joe examined numerous certifying organizations, and found the sustainability-focused values of Rainforest Alliance to be most in line with our own. Their work goes beyond the environment and into the lives of all who work on the land, including initiatives to improve children's access to education, promoting gender equity, and working to bring farm families up to a true living wage.
In 2017, we announced a companywide goal to bring our blended coffees—the bulk of our roasting operation—fully in line with Rainforest Alliance certification (which most of our guests will recognize by the frog on our coffee bags.) Today, 100% of our Waverly, Daily, Nightcap Decaf, Overnighter Cold Brew, and Benchmark blends are fully Rainforest Alliance Certified™, as well as our bottled cold brew coffees and as some of our seasonal single origin offerings like La Familia Guarnizo.
Bringing our blend program towards full certification was significant, says Joe Director of Sourcing Ed Kaufmann, not because we chose to purchase from new farms that were already Rainforest Alliance Certified, but because we worked together with our existing partner farms to help them obtain certification. Our partnership together has led us together to the iconic "Frog" seal which symbolizes a long-term investment in the quality and sustainability of each farm's supply chain.
"The Rainforest Alliance and their comprehensive certification most closely matches our own values and what we would want to include in our own program if we were to build it from the ground up," says Kaufmann. "We believe that supporting the Rainforest Alliance and their three pillars of sustainability (social, economic and environmental) helps us achieve our goals for sustainability."
In 2018, the Rainforest Alliance merged with UTZ, a leading certification program for coffee, tea, cocoa, and hazelnuts. We're now even prouder to have aligned our goals with those of the Rainforest Alliance for our coffees, and are honored to make their good work better known from our own small corner of the world. As part of this year's Rainforest Alliance "Follow the Frog" campaign, we encourage our friends and customers to take closer note of the Rainforest Alliance Certified seal on our packaging, and encourage them to #FollowTheFrog and look for this seal when they purchase agricultural and forestry products, such as coffee, tea, chocolate, flowers, household paper, and dozens more.
Joe Coffee x Collective Arts Brewing Collab
The friendship between coffee and beer is well known, whether they're being enjoyed one after the other—or in delicious combination. This fall, we're excited to announce a special collaboration with a groundbreaking brewery from our neighbo(u)rs to the north in Canada, Collective Arts Brewing. Founded in Ontario, the visual artists and brewing artisans at Collective Arts crossed the border to NYC this September with the launch a new beer featuring—you guessed it—our very own coffee. It's called the Percolated Haze IPA, and it stars La Familia Guarnizo, one of our very favorite relationship coffees from Colombia.
Joe Coffee Head Roaster Andrew Oberholzer tells the story:
"We knew we wanted to do something non-traditional for a coffee beer, so the team from Collective Arts came down to our NYC roastery with their entire portfolio. We tasted all of the beers with many different coffees in many different ratios. Once we settled on a coffee, we paid particular attention to its tasting notes to select hops that would pair well with and accentuate those notes. The citrus, brown sugar, and herbal notes of La Familia Guarnizo basically begged for an IPA pairing. Then I spent time perfecting roast profiles to find the perfect harmony of hops and coffee.
I've never had a coffee IPA quite like this. Oftentimes in coffee beers you'll get a big rush of coffee flavor and then the beer, but they never really feel very put together. This one is very balanced, I'm very happy with the integration of the coffee and beer—it feels very cohesive."
Collective Arts Brewing focuses on creativity both in their beers and their presentation. The brewer features limited-edition works of art on their beer cans and labels, part of a commitment to celebrating emerging artists and musicians that extends all the way into hosting art and music shows at their brewery. The artwork for Percolated Haze comes from Massachussetts graphic artist Jeff Bartel, and features just the kind of livey—and mindblowing—imagery this beer brings to mind.
Here at Joe, we think all the pieces fit together perfectly.
"Our first mission is to make creative, quality beer," says Collective Arts brewmaster Ryan Morrow. "Our second is to support the creative class and team up with business, artists, restaurants, or any like-minded people, for that matter. It's our way of exploring new opportunities and pushing the limits of what we can do. Joe Coffee does an incredible job of making quality coffee with a focus on innovation."
Check out Collective Arts Brewing's NYC debut at the following launch events this week:
09.13.18 Greenwood Park | 6 – 9 PM 555 7th Ave, Brooklyn09.14.18 Gowanus Pub Crawl | 4PM – 8PM (Five bars, starting at The Gate, then moving on to Fourth Avenue Pub, St. Gambrinus, Lavender Lake, and BierWax.)
Partner Story: La Familia Guarnizo
As told by Ed Kaufmann, Joe Coffee Director of Sourcing.
As we began roasting our own coffees here at Joe in 2012, of the earliest selections on our menu was purchased through a coffee exporter/importer called Caravela Coffee based in Bogota, Colombia and Chapel Hill, NC. The coffee was produced by a farmer named Wilmar Guarnizo in Tarqui, in the southern state of Huila, Colombia. We called it La Familia Guarnizo, and today, this family's farms are among our favorite to visit.
When we first got to know this coffee, we instantly wanted to dig deeper in order to learn more about Wilmar and other coffees from this region. We learned that Wilmar’s family is part of a growers’ association called El Paraiso, which acts as a group to bring operating costs down. The association is funded by a percentage of revenue from the producers, so its member farmers choose to produce higher quality and sell it for higher prices to Caravela, whose exporting warehouse happens to be right next door to El Paraiso. Through our relationship with Caravela and El Paraiso, we have been exposed to a number of coffees from Wilmar and his extended family as well as other members of the association. We loved them so much that once we began roasting 100% of the coffee served in Joe cafes, these coffees made up a significant part of our menu.
In 2014 I made my first visit to Tarqui and the Guarnizo family on behalf of Joe, a trip I now look forward to making every year to strengthen our ongoing relationship. The first year I visited the family as a green coffee buyer for Joe, I proposed we establish a fixed price contract where Joe would pay the same amount each year regardless of what the coffee commodities market was doing. The benefit of this is that the seller can count on a stable price for the coffee they produce, rather than be at the mercy of the ever-fluctuating market. The Guarnizo family includes ten siblings, each with their own section of small farms—all of whom all signed on to this original contract.
Coffee plants on one of the Guarnizo's family farms
My latest visit to the Guarnizos was this past August. Tarqui is somewhat remote—it takes about two days to get there from New York City. The nearest airport is in Pitalito, about an hour and a half away from Tarqui. The airport has a physical control tower but no one works there so the pilots flying small turbo-prop planes land by sight and radar as they see fit. Rory Gowan from Caravela met me at the airport and we went straight to one of Caravela’s purchasing stations in Pitalito to taste some coffees before heading out to our visit with the Guarnizos. The drive to Tarqui was easy except for a section of the road that was being repaired and reduced the highway to one lane with cars taking turns going through the bottleneck. When we arrived in Tarqui, we picked up Marisela Trujillo who is part of Caravela’s PECA (Programa de Educación a Caficultores) team. They visit producers regularly and offer technical consultation to help them raise their quality. We drove another 45 minutes up the eastern side of the central cordillera of The Andes Mountains and rolled into the field in front of Wilmar’s house. It sits on top of a hill like a bright green monastery, with his plastic-tarp-covered solar coffee-drying structure right next to the house, and his processing equipment behind the dryer. The view from Wilmar’s porch is a stunning expanse overlooking the Eastern Cordillera of the Andes. It was great to be back.
Ed Kaufmann, Director of Sourcing, with just some of the Guarnizo Family
Most of the siblings were there to greet us. We caught up the best we could through Rory, who was translating for both them and me. (My Spanish is ok but I think we both have a hard time understanding each other’s accents.) Wilmar talked about some of the changes he has made to his drying techniques which have allowed him to improve his quality. We had sancocho for lunch which is a typical Colombian soup served with rice, chicken (probably “prepared” that morning), yucca and corn. There were too many of us to sit at the table at once so half of us ate while the others waited outside and they took their turn. I always make the same joke: I slurp the soup broth very loudly like I’m evaluating it as I would evaluate coffee and I yell “NOVENTA!” meaning that the soup is a 90-point soup, very high scoring. It’s my silly way of complimenting Wilmar’s wife Tania for preparing such a nice meal for us, but it never fails to make everyone laugh and break the ice.
After lunch, several of us hiked around Wilmar’s farm, Finca La Vega, and talked about different cultivars of coffee he was growing. It was a magical setting to be in while telling him how much our customers love their coffee back in NYC. We looked out over the patchwork green valley between the Central and Eastern Cordilleras and talked about the very low coffee commodity futures price, something that is having huge impacts on many coffee producers around the world. For many farmers, the price they are paid is in relation to this ever-fluctuating futures market, unless the producer has a fixed price contract with a roaster, which we do with them. I was proud of the work we had all put in to devising the contract years ago and the work they’ve put in to maintain the quality that we need and our customers are accustomed to.
After we explored La Vega, we drove to Jose Javier’s farm, El Triunfo. We spoke with Jose Javier about coffee prices as well and he showed us his new drying structure that has a sturdy tin roof as opposed to plastic. It is stronger and provides more shade for slower drying which can be very beneficial for coffee quality. We all had a cup of coffee roasted by one of the brothers, Yimmy in a pan on the stove with a stick. It was delightful! We said our goodbyes and headed back to Pitalito to settle in for the night and prepare for the next leg of our journey home, already looking forward to next year’s visit to our partners the Guarnizos.
Instant Coffee—The Time is Right (Now)
Instant coffee. It's not a retro cool comeback: it's reborn, with all the nuance and flavor of specialty coffee first in mind. When we first became aware of the magic being worked at Lancaster, Pennsylvania's Swift Cup, we were curious. When we tasted their instant coffee, we were blown away. Through Swift Cup's advanced technology, they're able to turn beautiful brewed coffees into incredible instants—something we were thrilled to be able to offer the busy fans of Joe Coffee. We sat down with Swift Cup founder Nate Kaiser to go a little more in-depth.
Until very recently, when people thought of instant coffee, something very low-quality came to mind. What made your partners think you could flip the script on instant?You're absolutely right and we shared those feelings about instant coffee for sure. For us, we were very curious as to why the quality of all instant coffee on the market was so poor. We spent time understanding the production process for commodity instant coffee, the stuff that you find on the shelves of most supermarkets, and realized that every part of the production was designed for quantity over quality. The coffee going into instant is literally the lowest of the low grade and the manufacturing practices are harsh, stripping all nuance from the coffee. We wondered what would happen if we created a manufacturing process focused on quality and then build efficiencies in from there. Would that create good instant coffee? Spoiler: Yes, it certainly does!
What’s evolved in instant technology that made Swift Cup’s partners think “this is our moment”?First, instant coffee will never be better than the roasted coffee going into the process. The quality of coffee we have available as consumers is on a whole different playing field than when the first instant coffee factories were created, nearly 80 years ago. Specific to Swift Cup, we developed a piece of hardware that allows us to brew coffee with careful precision and in a highly concentrated manner. From there we developed a recipe using freeze-drying technology that gently dehydrates the coffee, preserving the nuance and character we celebrate in Specialty Coffee. This moment is unique and really a culmination of everything that's been taking place in Specialty Coffee for decades. Progressive farming and processing practices, roasting is better than ever, highly focused coffee brewing and a rapidly expanding customer base who expects higher quality coffee on all fronts. And when that quality isn't available when you're stuck at the office or traveling, Swift Cup offers those standards, but in instant form.
How did you connect with Joe Coffee?When Jonathan and the team came down to Lancaster, we quickly learned we shared common values. We did sample runs of Joe coffees in instant form, and the team at Joe was stoked on the quality. We then spent time together developing the product, with a shared mission to make quality coffee more accessible. For us, partnering withJoe, a trusted roaster with a major retail footprint, has played an integral part of introducing specialty instant coffee to the market.
The Swift Cup instant product ends up being quite versatile, easy to dissolve in hot water, cold water, milk, or even seltzer. What are your favorite interesting ways to prepare instant coffee—have you done anything particularly novel with it? Initially, we were stoked that our instant coffee produced a good cup of black coffee ha! We didn't expect there to be so many fun applications. Stirred into ice cream is definitely a favorite! Shaken with chocolate milk or even dissolved into tonic water, both delicious. I think to date, one of the most exciting things we've done with it is dissolve it into beer. Coffee beers have traditionally been pretty predictable and one dimensional, but having a concentrated coffee powder that packs a range of flavor opens the doors for some wild experimentation!
What’s next for Swift Cup?Every day we're learning new things about our process, ever refining and looking for innovative ways to make our instant coffee better and better. We're growing quickly, but our focus remains quality first. With the help of such dedicated partners like Joe, we're eager to bring specialty instant coffee to more and more people!
Interested in trying it yourself? We now offer three of our coffees as instant coffee: The Daily, La Familia Guarnizo, Nightcap Decaf